August 10, 2011 · 24 Comments
HARGEISA — When I came out of the Internet café in a cavernous basement onto the dirt road in downtown Hargeisa, a small creature brushed my leg and shuffled ahead. It was a baboon, sidling toward a small table of fruit attended by a middle-aged woman. Without turning, the baboon reached over its head and plucked a banana from the table, skipped 10 feet out of range and rested on its buttocks to enjoy the fruit, carefully peeling back the skin in three perfect sections, which it chucked over its shoulder into the street. A quiet scene, obviously repeated so often that the victimized merchant didn’t even protest. This was not the Somalia of piracy, kidnapping, executions, warring militias and famine the world is now hearing about daily.
The news from Somalia is distressing beyond words, thousands starving, those still mobile shuffling toward refugee camps inside Kenya. The tally of children dead from starvation and disease is 29,000 and mounting. Thousands more are being detained by the radical Islamic group known as al-Shabaab (meaning “the Youth” and modelled after the Taliban), which is anxious not to be outflanked by foreign aid agencies but has little to offer in the way of supplies.
While everything possible should be done to bring food, water and medical aid to these desperate refugees and internally displaced people, besieged by both man and nature, it’s worth pausing to think about the northern Republic of Somaliland, an oasis of stability in the midst of mayhem and chaos.
Somaliland has just completed 20 years of peaceful co-existence as an independent nation, with elected representatives, schools and a functioning judicial system. The northern region was under British rule until it gained independence in 1960 but quickly joined the greater Somalia, thinking, perhaps, that there might be strength in numbers and more bargaining capacity with the great powers.
This proved true, briefly, until Siad Barre overthrew the elected government, reintroduced clan-based privileges and alliances, tried to play off the Russians against the Americans, and began a disastrous war to regain the Ogaden grazing lands ceded by the British to Ethiopia and still a major bone of contention.
When I was in Hargeisa, the capital, in the spring of 2009, it was recovering from three bomb attacks by radical outsiders trying to destabilize the country. But the streets were safe, the markets bustling and a major poetry event and a Festival of the Camel were in progress. Much of the GDP was provided by relatives abroad, but the country was, by African standards, a model state, with the rights of women and children slowly improving. While the international community still refuses to recognize this new state, it’s worth remembering, as Mark Bradbury reminds us in Becoming Somaliland, that it’s more embracing of fairness and liberty than most of its African and Persian Gulf neighbours.
Many nations that might lead the way in recognizing Somaliland have been reluctant to encourage separatist movements. It’s not difficult to imagine how Russians, Americans, Chinese and even Canadians might have viewed this not-quite-vibrant upstart throwing off the shackles of a brutal dictatorship. Hargeisa had been ignored and finally bombed by Siad Barre’s regime, suffering more than 50,000 casualties. Humanitarian workers were thrown into jail and writers driven into exile or rebellion. During my trip to the coastal city of Berbera, with two armed guards to keep me company, I saw an obsolete tank abandoned beside the road, its barrel trained on some invisible enemy in the sky, and in the harbour, the rusting hulks of sunken ships rested at improbable angles in the sky-blue waters of the Gulf of Aden.
African nations, their borders arbitrarily carved by European colonial powers, were equally reluctant to encourage breakaway sentiments in the political units they had inherited, although tribes and ethnic groups had been torn asunder by the political and economic ambitions of foreigners, many of whom are still key players in the scramble for African loot. But now that South Sudan has achieved independence through a nationwide referendum, this may pave the way for Somaliland to make its own case in the international arena.
It would be great if Canada took the initiative and made the first move in this direction, a long overdue act of largesse to compensate for the travesties of the 1993 Somalia affair, when Canadian soldiers tortured and murdered a Somalia teenager named Shidane Arone. But that’s another story.
By Gary Geddes
Gary Geddes is the author of Drink the Bitter Root: A Writer’s Search for Justice and Redemption in Africa.
Source: The Globe and Mail | 10 August 2011
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Tags: Africa, Al shabaab, Somalia, Somaliland
Hargeisa looks beautiful, under Somalia it was a graveyard…see the difference? Why would I go back to a graveyard (Somalia)?
soon-REPUBLIC OF SOMALILAND WIL BE RECOGNIZED-wheather walawaytu like it or not
Somalis are brothers whether they separate or not. I wonder why some somalilanders still hate suffering somalis! If we can not help somalia to re set up we must hope them their peace from Lord Almighty, as we hope our recognition be granted from heaven!
May Allah bring peace and alleviate the suffering of the Somalis citizen of Somalia. Somaliland is an Island of peace in a sea of violence from here we are moving forward to our destiny and soon recognition we are already laying down the foundation May Allah help us all.
It's a makeup stability which is only helped by it's inhabitants of a single tribe .. what about the Sool and Sanag and Awdal areas? aren't these part of the called Somaliland?? Where ever there is a one tribe land in Somalia there is peace. Besides, Somaliland is from RasGardafoi down to Garisa of Kenya, that is Somali land not the small enclave cut off by the British for their Aden garrison ..
Nobody cares about people who do not care. They are lucky to have this "single tribe" otherwise they all would have been dying of hunger and thirst like the zoomalis. Don't make enemies needlessly, cos nobody will tolerate unjust ppl like you and the ppl you represent.
@Hussein,
Yes, these three regions are in Somaliland. Your point?
@Qoodal
Ameen walal, May Allah remove the suffering from innocent people in and around Somalia. AlhamdulIah for the God given peace in Somaliland but it's hard to have peace in the heart knowing that the citizens of Somalia is suffering. We know what it feels like to be fleeing from war and at the moment it's hard to see Somalia like that women and children and elders and innocent and poor people fleeing or dying on their way, young boys with guns. UN aid and charity money will not do much if peace is not restored again so make duca in the month of Ramadan whilst on sajdah in the mosque or wherever. If this continues for Somalia any longer than Allahu mustacan
Mr.Hussein please grow up and stop dividing the progressive people of Somaliland. My fellow Awdel citizens have a very long history and they were the Somaliland leader for more than 8 years. Don´t you know that.
Sool and sanaag citizens also have a long history in Somaliland.
In a legel democratic constitution with free elections EVERY citizen has the rights to lead Somaliland PROVIDED that he wins the hearts of the majority.
Wake up Mr. Hussein.
Mr. Hussein pls grow up and stop dividing the progressive peope of Somliland. Awdel citizens have a very long history. Don´t you know that the Awdels were Somaliland leader for more than 8 years and handing the power to Kulmiye. Sharaf. ( true Somalilanders).
Sool and Sanaag have also a very long and well known history in Somaliland.
In a legel democratic constitution with free and fear election EVERY citizen has the rights to take the lead PROVIDED that he or she wins the hearts and minds of the nation.
Wake up Mr. Hussein .
It is a must to save the innocent lives in Somalia. TFG, Alshabab and the rest are all heartless.
Don't Hate, Appreciate Bloody Walaaweyns!!!!
It is Ramadaan please tell the truth. There is one Allah and we warship the only Allah don't be afraid of another human and tell lie for that reason.
Ramadaan kariim
I visited Hargaysa 02/14/2011 and I have been in Hargasa 1984. I was very sad when I saw Hargaysa my next visit because there was a sign of no city plan was implemented when city was rebuilding. There more building but there is no city regulations at all and I don't why. There are bushes and street vendors. It seems nobody collects garbage. No adequate roads and traffic/human regulations.
Why you lie in the Ramadaan.
Are afraid of the SNM miltia to arrest you if you tell the truth or you belong to minority group. Why you lie and delete my opinions?
Collect the garbage.
This city needs traffic, human and animal regulation. It needs city plan no proper roads and zoning. No regulations for street vendors and electric lines. And also, many other issues. Check the beautiful Bosasso, Garowe and Galkayo.
bosasso is full of rape.37% of darood women were raped by their fathers and brothers.darood are bad people
Fear Allah and stop bad mouthing Muslim people.
I believe the rape victim was your mother.
only fools may believe this mania of Isaqland
SNM runta ma ogola miyaa
Lets not argue about things that are unnecessary, there are thousands of people in the brink of starvation in Somalia. The world's attention or should say at least the West has been for the last couple months how to overthrow Gaddafi, now few countries are advocating of how to save the lives of millions of children who are starving in Somalia. The Somali race whether in Somaliland, Puntland, Kenya, Djibouti or abroad should be on how to help the suffering children. Why waste your time on reer hebel and reer hebel in the month of Ramadan, Did we forget that every soul will test death and in death only your deeds will shield you from hell fire not your tribe or the city yu were born in or nationality. This time may be time to come together and unite and not time to get divided. One country one people one nation.
Some of these comments are ridiculous. For example if someone doesn't agree with the entity of "Somaliland" then they are allowed to have an opinion, stop the personal attacks morons. Furthermore, the ones for "Somaliland" can also voice their opinions on the stability and progress of their region. Learn how to debate intellectually, if you cant please refrain from posting your idiocy.
God bless the Somali people!